Three Types of Strawberry Jam

The sky opened up and it rained hard on Saturday morning, and all of the local gardeners and farmers were ecstatic.  It had been scorchingly hot, with no rain for a few weeks. My neighbour, Peter, referred to the storm as 'the million dollar rain'.  The local Saturday morning market was a bit sparse and so when I saw the flats of strawberries, I thought strawberry jam, either that, or tackle organizing the basement.  It was an easy decision.  Strawberry Jam.

When I got home I pulled out my Small Batch Preserving, by Margaret Howard,  and found a couple of recipes, one with sherry, and another with balsamic vinegar.  My mother had a fondness for Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry, and I had the remnants of a bottle from years ago in the cupboard.  The other recipe reminded me of one of my favourite deserts, strawberries with balsamic vinegar and crushed black peppercorns. 


After making these recipes there were still strawberries left over, and I thought a classic jam, and so I made what started out to be Plane Jane Strawberry Jam until, Andrea, who was visiting, suggested I add tarragon "just to add a bit of interest", so the third batch is French Tarragon Strawberry Jam.  

Three Types of Strawberry Jam

Balsamic and Peppercorn Strawberry Jam

• 8 cups of small strawberries, cleaned and hulled
• 4 cups of sugar
• 1/4 cup of balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon of coarsely crushed peppercorns

Combine strawberries and sugar in large stainless steel pot.  Let it stand for at least two hours, stirring occasionally.  Add vinegar and bring to a hard boil and continue boiling gently for 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and add peppercorns.

Pour into large flat glass or enamel pans to 1/2 inch depth.  Place in oven and bake at 170F for 10 hours, or in a convection oven for 3 hours.  Stir occasionally.


Ladle into 8 oz sterilized bottles and screw on lids.  Process for 10 minutes.  Makes 5 bottles. 

Mom's Harvey's Bristol Cream with Strawberry Preserves

• 5 cups of cleaned and hulled small strawberries
• 4 cups of sugar
• juice of one lemon
• I pouch of liquid fruit pectin
• 1/2 cup of Harvey's Bristol Cream

Stir sugar, lemon and strawberries in stainless steel or enamel pot and let stand for 4 or 5 hours. Bring to boil over high heat, stirring constantly, and boil hard for 2 minutes. remove from heat, and add pectin and sherry.

Ladle into 8 ounce, wide mouthed, sterilized bottles and process for 10 minutes.  Makes 4, 8 ounce bottles.

Andrea's Tarragon Strawberry Jam

• 5 cups of strawberries, half slightly crushed, the other half cut in half
• 4 cups of sugar
• juice from 2 lemons
• 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 1 envelop of pectin

Mix berries, lemon juice and sugar and let stand for 8 hours.  Put in stainless steel pot and boil for 5 minutes.  Stir in pectin and cook for another minute.  Remove form heat and stir in tarragon.

Ladle into bottles and process for 10 minutes.  Makes 4, 8 ounce bottles

Canada Day Strawberry and Rhubarb Tart

I currently have  strawberries and rhubarb in my garden. Strawberries and rhubarb are the quintessential early summer combination.  Rhubarb, technically a vegetable, is the very first thing from the garden and as long as it is picked regularly will continue to produce for most of the summer.  Strawberries come later, but are worth the wait.  There is nothing like Ontario strawberries fresh from the field.  They taste like a completely different fruit than the strawberries that come from the southern US and Mexico.

Growing up, we always had rhubarb in the garden, and would often pick buckets of strawberries in a "pick your own" strawberry field to make strawberry jam for the rest of the year, and then indulge in the left over bucket of strawberries, for the next few days -  strawberries and milk for breakfast, strawberry short cake,  strawberry and spinach salad, and my mother's favourite was always strawberry and rhubarb stew.  

It was Canada Day and I so it seemed appropriate to refer to Rose Murray's  book, " A Taste of Canada"  and her recipe for Strawberry and Rhubarb Tart for inspiration.  

Canada Day Strawberry and Rhubarb Tart

Pastry

• 1 1/4 cups of all purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons of sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon of salt
• 1/2 cup of cold unsalted butter
• 3 tablespoons of ice water

9" tart pan with removable bottom

Sift together dry ingredients.  Cut butter into small pieces and put in flour.  Cut butter into flour until a light crumble.  Gradually stir in cold water adjusting amount until the correct consistency.  Form into flat ball, and roll and fit into 9" fluted tart pan. Prick bottom with fork, and cover with parchment paper, and weigh down bottom.  I use my daughters old marbles, but dry beans or rice also work. 

Bake at 425F for 8 minutes, Remove weights and parchment paper and put back in oven for another 5 to 8 minutes.  I protect the edges by reusing the parchment paper and placing it lightly over the tart.   Cool and remove from tart pan.

Filling

• 4 cups of chopped rhubarb
• 1/2 cup of brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons of port
• 1/2 cup of black current jelly
• 4 cups of fresh hulled strawberries

Glaze

• 4 tablespoons of current jelly
• 1 tablespoon of port

Combine brown sugar, port and jelly in heavy sauce pan.  Add rhubarb and cook over low heat, storing until the sugar, jelly and port are fluid in constancy.  Turn up heat, storing often, until the rhubarb is a mushy constancy, about 10 minutes.  Cool.

In small pot, heat current jelly and port for glaze.

Fill shell with rhubarb mixture, arrange strawberries, point up in filling, and paint strawberries with glaze.  

This tart is fabulous on it's own, however whipped cream or vanilla ice cream as a compliment push this desert over the top. 

Rose's Outrageous Cherry and Chocolate Ice Cream

Rose, her brother and her father came over to pick cherries, cherries and more cherries from my very heavily ladened cherry tree, and then invited me for dinner the next night.  Rose, who at nine years of age, has mastered the fine art of making ice cream, made the most outrageous Cherry and Chocolate Ice Cream for desert, and  generously agreed to share her recipe

Rose's Outrageous Cherry and Chocolate Ice Cream,            photo by Rose

• 1/4 cup of shaved chocolate, Rose used Dark Callebaut chocolate from Belgium
• 2 1/2 cups of pitted Bing cherries
• 2 large eggs
• 3/4 cup of sugar
• 2 cups of heavy whipped cream
• 1 cup of milk
• 1 teaspoon of vanilla, (if you are not a 9 year old you may want to substitute 1/4 cup of something alcoholic like Kier, Brandy or Amaretto to soak the cherries in to keep them from freezing solid)

Whisk eggs, and slowly whisk in sugar, add milk and cream and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until mixture simmers.   Put mixture in ice cream maker and churn until almost stiff.  Add cherries,(if you have soaked them in alcohol, pour off any excess alcohol before adding to cream mixture) and chocolate and churn for one more minute.  Place in freezer and cure for a few hours.  

Tomato and Garlic Scape Tart

I made this tart for my friend Ann's potluck birthday party, and so, after a perfect weather weekend in the country, I came back to the city, tart in hand, to Ann's empty house with partially deflated balloons on the front porch.  I had missed the party by a day.  I have promised to make this again the next time Ann visits, hopefully with fresh tomatoes from my garden instead of from the store. 

I used garlic scape pesto, however you could substitute finely chopped garlic or shallots in its place. Traditional pesto made with basil would also be good, however I would substitute a milder cheese for the cheddar when using the basil version.

Pastry

Use your favourite sturdy pastry recipe. 

Filling

• a selection of tomatoes
• sharp cheddar cheese
• olive oil
• garlic scape pesto
• salt and pepper to taste

Slice large tomatoes into thick slices and salt, let rest on paper towels to drain off excess fluid. If cherry tomatoes are large, cut in half and treat the same way.  

Roll pastry into large circle about 12" in diameter.   Place on parchment paper, on baking sheet with out edges.    Cover centre 8" diameter of pastry with 1/8" slices of cheese.  Arrange tomatoes over cheese.  Mix olive oil and scape pesto.  Paint tomatoes with mixture.  Fold up edges of pastry to contain tomatoes.  Salt and pepper top.  Bake at 375F for about 40 minutes until tomatoes look done.  

A Variation on my Award Winning Cherry Pie

This year's bumper crop of cherries

There was a cherry tree in my back yard when I first moved in, and over the years it has matured into a large and beautiful tree that shades the yard and produces a bounty of cherries in June.  Time to make cherry pie. 

As a young girl, my mother decided I should be a home economist and in order to prepare me, entered me in baking competitions.  While other kids would practice the piano or go to dance lessons, or hang out and play, I would come home after school and practice baking.  I would bake the same recipe with a slight variation,  cut out a wedge, examine the consistency,  taste and then wrap up and put the experiment in the freezer and start all over again.  Cherry Pie was one of my Red Ribbon winners, and so, after not having made the recipe for years, I took down my old recipe book from the top shelf and baked it once more.


The recipe from my youth used frozen cherries, so working with fresh cherries required some adjustment, and then it was sweeter than I would bake it now, so I modified the recipe once again, and then I substituted Amaretto for the almond extract.  I am not sure it would win the red ribbon, however it does feel right now.

My less than perfect cherry pie.  I am definitely out of practice. 

Preheat oven to 375F

Pastry

• 2  1/2 cups of sifted pastry flour
• 1/2 cup of ground almonds
• 1 tablespoon of sugar
• 1/2teaspoon of salt
• 3/4 cup of cold butter
• 5 to 6 tablespoons of cream
• 1/4 teaspoon of almond extract

Mix dry ingredients, and cut in butter.  Mix cream and almond extract. Gradually stir in cream mixture until mixture holds together.  Do not overwork.  Split in half and form into two flat balls.  Wrap in plastic and refrigerate while preparing filling. 

Cherry Filling

• 5 cups of pitted Bing cherries
• 1/4 cup of Amaretto
• juice of one lemon
• 1 tablespoon of sugar
• 1 tablespoon of cornstarch

Add Amaretto and lemon juice to cherries and let rest for half an hour.  Mix sugar and corn starch together.  Add a bit of water to make paste.  Drain liquid from cherries, and mix juice with corn starch mixture.  Heat over hot stove until clear.  Add cherries and set aside.

Roll half of the pastry and place in 8" pie plate.  Add cherry mixture.  Roll other half of pastry and cut into strips.  Weave lattice on top of pie.  Cover edges of pastry with foil, and bake for 40 minutes. 

Garlic Scape Pesto

Garlic scape in the garden today 

This past fall I planted 10 different types of garlic in my garden, not knowing which I preferred.  Unfortunately, the pen I used on the name tags washed off over the winter, so I still won't know which is my favourite and will have to be disciplined enough to save some of my favourite for planting later in the fall.  Lesson learned - keep notes, tags aren't good enough. 

On a positive note, I now have an abundance of garlic scapes.  In the past I would throw a few in a stir fry, or in a salad or sauté some as a side.  However over a hundred scapes at one time presented a challenge, until my I remembered my friend Denis raving about the pleasures of Garlic Scape Pesto, and I have to say after making this once, it will become an annual event.


Of course, I didn't have pine nuts in the cupboard or sunflower seeds for that matter, but I did have pumpkin seeds, so I gave it a try, and will definitely use again.

Garlic Scape Pesto

Garlic Scape Pesto

• 2 cups of garlic scapes 
• approximately 1/4 cup of olive oil
• 1/4 cup of grated parmesan cheese
• 1/4 cup of pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, or sunflower seeds
• 4 sealable small bottles for storing

Cut scapes into small pieces that the food processor can handle.  If any of the scapes have progressed to the hard flower stage, remove hard piece and discard.  Chop in food processor, adding olive oil slowly until the mixture is slightly more fluid than a paste.  Add about the same amount of grated parmesan cheese and pumpkin seeds as olive oil.  Process and add more olive oil until correct consistency.

Place in sterilized bottles, seal with olive oil, and store in refrigerator.  

I also made a vegan version with no parmesan cheese and twice the amount of pumpkin seeds and added some salt to compensate for the missing salt from the cheese.  

Wilted Greens on Vegetable Ragout on Quinoa

Monday was both a rough day at the office and a hot and steamy summer day, and I had planned on making my fallback quick and easy summer dinner, salad Niçoise, when my daughter arrived home and announced she had decided to become Vegan.  Salad Niçoise without eggs, cheese, anchovies and tuna is not possible!   And if adjusting for a vegan diet were not enough to deal with at the end of a tough day, the salad greens I had picked  from my garden  in the country on Sunday, had wilted, sitting in the car, in the sun, while I stopped at a friend's going away party on the way home. 

Time for a new strategy.   I checked the refrigerator, and decided on a vegetable ragout on quinoa.  As I was about to throw out the greens, my daughter suggested wilted greens - so  together - Claire and I made Wilted Greens on Vegetable Ragout on Quinoa, a vegan meal without having to resort to the dreaded tofu. 

Vegetable Ragout

• 1 large red onion coarsely chopped, approximatey 1 cup
• 2 large cloves of garlic, finely  chopped
• oyster mushrooms, about the size of your fist
• a handful of shitake mushrooms, stems removed
• 1 red pepper, chopped
• 1 small eggplant, sliced
• 1 28 oz can of whole stewed tomatoes, coarsely cut
• the end of a bottle of of wine, red or white 
• olive oil, quantity depends on your cooking style. I tend to use less
• salt  and peper
• a pinch of dried chile flakes
• a sprig of thyme
• a handful of fresh basil

Heat olive oil in a stainless steel pan.  Add onions and garlic and soften, set aside.  Sauté eggplant, mushrooms and red pepper.  Put all cooked vegetables in a large stainless steel pot and add tomatoes, chile flakes, thyme, and wine if you have some. if not, add a dash of balsamic vinegar and bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes,   Add herbs, and salt and pepper to taste, simmer for a few more minutes. 

Wilted Salad Greens

• 4 cups of washed mixed salad greens
• 2 cloves of garlic,
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• fresh herbs such as coriander, chives, 
• extra virgin olive oil, 
• 1 tablespoon of balsamic vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste.

Heat stainless steel frying pan, add olive oil and sauté garlic and shallots,  add vinegar, greens and herbs, lightly cook until warm and wilted.  Do not overcook. Salt and pepper to taste. 

To serve, place cooked quinoa in bottom of bowl.  Ladle ragout over quinoa and place wilted vegetables on top.  Sprinkle with coarse smoked salt.

Pickled Asparagus with Lemon and Pepper

As spring progressed to summer and the asparagus season looked like it might be coming to an end,  I was running out of time to preserve asparagus.  At the same time my spring onions were prolific.  

Pickled asparagus with lemon and pepper

• 2 bunches, about 3" in diameter of freshly picked asparagus
• 4 to 6 spring onions including white part of stock,  (I grow multipliers in my garden which are perfect at the same time that the asparagus is ready to harvest) Alternately, often, young garlic with stocks are available at the market at his time of year
• 2 tablespoons of pickling salt
• 1 1/2 cups of white vinegar
• 1 1/2 cups of white wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup of water
• 2 tablespoons of sugar
• juice form 1 lemon
• thin lemon slices
• thinly sliced lemon peel 
• pepper corns

• 2 wide mouthed 1 pint preserving bottles, sterilized

Cut asparagus to 3/4" shorter than bottle.  Pack bottles with asparagus spears with tip down.  Include a two or 3 early spring onions including white part of stalks and 3 or 4 slices of lemon in each bottle. Add 1 teaspoon of pepper corns  and lemon peel to each bottle.In non reactive pot, bring vinegars, salt and sugar to a boil.  Add lemon juice.  Fill bottles to within 1/2 inch of top.  Screw on lid and process for 10 minutes.  

Salade Niçoise

In Toronto, this week, we experienced record temperatures and  for this time of year and hit 30ºC.  Summer has come early as did our first salad Niçoise of the season.  This variation of a classic is a summer family favourite that can be made quickly and dressed up or down depending on presentation and whether the tuna is fresh or canned.

I like to use Kozlik's Canadian Mustard, available at St Lawrence Market, Feista Farms and The Hundred Mile Store in Creemore.  The mustard is fabulous, with multiple flavour options and for me, it makes sense that rather than sending Canadian mustard seeds to France to be processed into Dijon Mustard, I use  this very good mustard that is made locally.    

two dinner portions
salad

• 4 cups of mixed salad greens
• 4 small potatoes
• 2 eggs
• 6 anchovies
• 14 green beans
• 1 tomato
• 10 olives
• 8 ounces of sushi grade tuna

dressing

• 1 clove of garlic finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon of good quality grainy mustard
• 1 tablespoon of balsamic vinegar
• 3 tablespoons of good quality extra virgin olive oil
• fresh thyme leaves
• salt and pepper to taste

Prepare salad dressing and set aside.

Boil potatoes and eggs in salted water.   Run under cold water when cooked.  Briefly cook green beans and then put in ice bath to maintain intensity of green and stop cooking.  Peel eggs,  cut potatoes and . tomatoes.

Split salad greens between two bowls.  Arrange vegetables, eggs, anchovies, and olives on greens.
Sear tuna on high heat, slice and arrange on greens, add dressing and serve.  

Claire's Tart Lemon Tart

Claire's Tart Lemon Tart with Debbie's Birthday Lilacs

Claire saw a picture of this tart in a magazine when she was eight and made it for a family function.  Since then, it has become her specialty and, it is expected that she bring it to all family events.  When she was younger, she made the filling and I made the pastry.  I occasionally still help with the rolling of the pastry.  This is very lemony and a bit tart, unlike the more typical, sweeter and custardy lemon tarts.  A small sliver complimented by seasonal fresh berries is a perfect end to a spring meal.

Pastry for 8" tart pan

• 1 1/4 cups of all purpose flour
• 2 tablespoon of organic sugar
• 1/2 cup of cold unsalted butter
• 1 large egg, slightly beaten

Combine flour and sugar, cut in butter.  Add 2 tablespoons of cold water to egg mixture and stir into flour, handling as little as possible.  Add more water if needed for pastry to hold together.  Form into  flattened ball and wrap in plastic wrap, refrigerate for at least an hour. 

Lemon Curd

• 4 large egg yolks plus 1 whole egg slightly beaten
• 1 cup of organic sugar
• 1/2 cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice, approximately 3 lemons
• 1/2 cup of unsalted butter, cut into pieces

In a heavy pan, strain the egg yolks and the whole egg through a sieve.  Add the sugar and lemon juice and mix.  Cook over a low heat, stirring constantly and the mixture covers the back of the spoon.  Remove form heat and add the butter, one piece at a time and stir until mixed in.  Add lemon zest.  Cover with sedan wrap until ready to use.
      
Heat oven to 375F
Roll pastry.  We like it to be thick, maybe a 1/4 inch or so.  Fit into tart pan, line foil or parchment paper, and fill with pastry weights.  We use Claire's old marbles, but beans or rice also work.  Bake for 20 minutes.  Remove foil and weights and cook for another 10 minutes or until golden.  After the pastry has cooled, add lemon curd and place back in oven for another 10 minutes or until the curd has set. 
   

First Garden Salad of the Season

This weekend we harvested the the first salad of the season from the garden.  I had planted a mescalin mix and some arugula seeds in that early warm spell this spring just before that last heavy snow fall. Luckily the snow melted the next day and watered the seeds, giving the plants a good kick start.  This weekend the leaves were finally large enough to begin harvesting.  Chives, lovage and some fennel fonds supplemented the salad, as well as the perennial herbs, thyme, sage and oregano.  
Earlier in the day, we had weeded all the garlic mustard we came across.  The leaves from the garlic mustard, which are nutritionally loaded, provided a tasty addition to the salad. I had also planted some pansies and the flowers made the perfect topping for our first garden salad. 

Pickled Wild Leeks or Ramps

My daughter came up north this weekend, and since there were still morels on the front lawn, and lots of wild leeks in the woods, suggested a repeat performance of last week's dinner, complete with cheese.  Because Claire has been off dairy lately, I hadn't anticipated this and was short of Parmesan cheese.  This tuned out to be one of those happy accidents because this week's risotto turned out to be better than last week's.  I am not sure about blog etiquette, however, I have gone back and adjusted the risotto recipe to reflect the reduced cheese.

When digging leeks for the risotto, I noticed the first of the buds were starting to form on the ramps.  This is the first sign of the end of the leek season. Time is running out to preserve ramps, so picked Ramps became the weekend project.

Pickled Wild Leeks (Ramps) will turn a pale pink as they age

I like to pickle the leek bulbs with no seasoning, to allow for more flexibility when using them later. I save the leek greens to use in salads or sauté and serve as a side.

Ingredients

• 50 to 60 wild leeks
• 1/2 cup of white vinegar
• 1/3 cup of rice vinegar
• 2 tablespoons of kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons of sugar
• 2 250 ml wide mouthed canning jars

Clean wild leeks and cut off greens just above the bulb. Save greens for another use.
Place leek bulbs in a sterilized jar.
Mix vinegars, salt and sugar together in a stainless steel pot and bring to the boil.
Fill jar to 1/2" from top and screw on lid.
Process jar in boiling water for 20 minutes. Tighten lid and store in a dark place until ready to use.  These are best after a couple of weeks.


If you are pickling more than a few bottles, experiment with different spices in some of the bottles.  A half teaspoon of picking spices with a small Tai chili pepper in each  bottle works well.  


And it goes without saying that it is very important to only harvest a very small portion of any wild leek patch, as they take years to develop.  I have read, I forget where, that a large leek bulb may be 20 years old.  I transplanted a patch of wild leeks from the country to the city under some large trees, and while they come up every year, the patch is only a tiny bit larger after 5 years.  

Port Rhubarb and Apple Crisp

 Rhubarb was the first plant in my garden that could be picked this year.  Last weekend as part of our goodbye winter dinner, we made a rhubarb and apple crisp using an open bottle of port, that had probably been in the fridge a little too long, to supplement the sweetener.  At dinner we had a conversation about whether it was a  crisp, crumble or a cobbler, and eventually decided on 'crisp' because the topping did not use flour as you would in a pastry,  but rather, was coarser with an oat base and not crumby. After doing some research, I think we weren't too far off the mark.  I liked Canadian Living's approach which suggests that it really doesn't matter, call it whatever you like, however I found a more precise explanation on OChef that I also found useful.

The desert was a success, with the help of a generous scoop of Mad River Co, Madagascar Vanilla Ice Cream.  I think this is the best vanilla ice cream ever. The only place that I know of, that I can buy it, and only sporadically, is at the 100 Mile Store in Creemore.

Port Rhubarb and Apple Crisp

serves 4
heat oven to 350F

• 4 stocks of rhubarb, cut into 1" pieces
• 2 apples cut into bite some chunks
• 1/4 cup of port
• 2 tablespoons of brown sugar 
• 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon of nutmeg

topping

• 1 cup of oats
• 1/4 up of butter
• 2 tablespoons of brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon of cinnamon

Mix the rhubarb, apples, sugar and spices, and port together in a bowl, and put in small loaf pan or serving sized containers that can go in the oven.  Prepare the topping, next.  Mix the sugar and cinnamon with the oats.  Cut in the butter, and press into flat pieces and cover the fruit.  Bake at 350F for 20 minutes for individual portions, or 30 minutes for larger pan, or until juices are bubbling.  Serve warm with ice cream.

 Best Wishes to Fifth Town Artisan Cheese

A very ripe "Lost Lake" 

This past Saturday, while picking up some groceries at the 100 Mile Store in Creemore, I asked for a "Lost Lake" or "Operetta Cheese" by Fifth Town Artisan Cheese.  I was devastated to find out that Fifth Town Artisan Cheese was closing it's doors temporarily and there would be no more of these fabulous little cheeses for a while.  So sad.  Good luck with the restructuring. 

Wild Leek and Morel Risotto

Wild Leek and Morel Risotto

The first spring at our our place in the country near Honeywood, my daughter and I discovered wild leeks in our woods.  A few weeks later we found morels growing under the big old maple tree on the front lawn.  I wasn't sure that these were really morels and so after being reassured by my neighbour that indeed these were the real thing and that morels are one of the few mushrooms that are next to impossible to mistake, I felt I had won the lottery.  

Swath of Wild Leeks in the Woods

It was a cold and wet weekend and risotto was the prefect remedy.  After digging the leeks in the rain, we were thoroughly chilled, so standing over the hot stove doing the slow risotto stir was perfect.  This recipe became an instant family spring ritual.  

Because the morel season is so short, maybe two or three weeks if we are really lucky, and very unpredictable, I tend to invite everyone I can muster on short notice for this annual indulgence.   

First Morel of the Year

This weekend the morels returned, and unlike our first experience, it was a warm and sunny weekend.  Ann was visiting from Perth and shared her fond memories of Sylvia Boorman who wrote "Wild Plums in Brandy,wild foods cookery" in 1969. Sylvia's place, it turns out, had been only minutes away from our place in Honeywood.  Ann, as a young girl, had spent a week with Sylvia, learning about food that could be forged from the woods, and so it seemed fitting, that it was Ann, who was helping with the digging of the wild leeks this year.   My good friends and neighbors, Alan and Ester, joined us for the ritual spring dinner of Wild Leek and Morel Risotto, and also remembered Sylvia and had stories to share.  

In addition to the wild leeks and morels, we also had the first local asparagus from Griffins Market Garden, and the first rhubarb from my garden.  I think we are finally putting winter behind us.  

Ann cleaning the wild leeks

serves 6


15 to 20 wild leeks, depending on size
1/4 cup of olive oil
1/2 cup  fresh morels
1 1/2 cups of arborio rice
2 cups of dry white wine
7 cups of vegetable broth
sprig of thyme
4 tablespoons of butter
1/3 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Clean leeks well under cold running water.  Cut the leaves just above the bulb and save the leaves for later. Cut bulbs in half, lengthwise and sauté the bulbs in the 
olive oil, and add the rice and stir, until the rice becomes translucent. Add 1/2  of the wine and stir over medium heat until almost all the wine is absorbed.  Add the other half of the wine and repeat.  Add thyme and then add the broth 1 cup at a time, stirring until  almost all is absorbed and repeat until rice is done. It should be creamy but still al dente.  In the mean time, clean the morels and cut into large bite size pieces and coarsely chop the greens from the leeks.  Sauté the mushrooms in half the butter, add the greens at the last minute and stir both into the risotto.  Remove from heat. Cut the remaining butter into chunks and quickly stir into rice mixture.  Stir in cheese and add salt and pepper to taste.