Wild Leek and Morel Risotto

Wild Leek and Morel Risotto

The first spring at our our place in the country near Honeywood, my daughter and I discovered wild leeks in our woods.  A few weeks later we found morels growing under the big old maple tree on the front lawn.  I wasn't sure that these were really morels and so after being reassured by my neighbour that indeed these were the real thing and that morels are one of the few mushrooms that are next to impossible to mistake, I felt I had won the lottery.  

Swath of Wild Leeks in the Woods

It was a cold and wet weekend and risotto was the prefect remedy.  After digging the leeks in the rain, we were thoroughly chilled, so standing over the hot stove doing the slow risotto stir was perfect.  This recipe became an instant family spring ritual.  

Because the morel season is so short, maybe two or three weeks if we are really lucky, and very unpredictable, I tend to invite everyone I can muster on short notice for this annual indulgence.   

First Morel of the Year

This weekend the morels returned, and unlike our first experience, it was a warm and sunny weekend.  Ann was visiting from Perth and shared her fond memories of Sylvia Boorman who wrote "Wild Plums in Brandy,wild foods cookery" in 1969. Sylvia's place, it turns out, had been only minutes away from our place in Honeywood.  Ann, as a young girl, had spent a week with Sylvia, learning about food that could be forged from the woods, and so it seemed fitting, that it was Ann, who was helping with the digging of the wild leeks this year.   My good friends and neighbors, Alan and Ester, joined us for the ritual spring dinner of Wild Leek and Morel Risotto, and also remembered Sylvia and had stories to share.  

In addition to the wild leeks and morels, we also had the first local asparagus from Griffins Market Garden, and the first rhubarb from my garden.  I think we are finally putting winter behind us.  

Ann cleaning the wild leeks

serves 6


15 to 20 wild leeks, depending on size
1/4 cup of olive oil
1/2 cup  fresh morels
1 1/2 cups of arborio rice
2 cups of dry white wine
7 cups of vegetable broth
sprig of thyme
4 tablespoons of butter
1/3 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Clean leeks well under cold running water.  Cut the leaves just above the bulb and save the leaves for later. Cut bulbs in half, lengthwise and sauté the bulbs in the 
olive oil, and add the rice and stir, until the rice becomes translucent. Add 1/2  of the wine and stir over medium heat until almost all the wine is absorbed.  Add the other half of the wine and repeat.  Add thyme and then add the broth 1 cup at a time, stirring until  almost all is absorbed and repeat until rice is done. It should be creamy but still al dente.  In the mean time, clean the morels and cut into large bite size pieces and coarsely chop the greens from the leeks.  Sauté the mushrooms in half the butter, add the greens at the last minute and stir both into the risotto.  Remove from heat. Cut the remaining butter into chunks and quickly stir into rice mixture.  Stir in cheese and add salt and pepper to taste.